My B7 A4
Update: Parted Out & Sold in February, 2012 for a Brilliant Red B7 S4
I bought the car used in 2008 with 29k miles on it from Audi Chandler after I had totaled my Acura TSX in an unfortunate collision with a Lincoln Navigator (he won). I instantly fell in love with it, and have been slowly modifying it since, with the goal of keeping the clean, striking design from the factory while enhancing it with some OEM and aftermarket parts to make it perform and look a little better than stock. Check out my mod list below for more information on what I’ve done to modify my car, as well as the options that came with it. Many of the mods have links to individual posts in this blog reviewing the product or supplying more pictures of the mod.
My Mod List:
- 2.0T Engine
- Full S-line Package (wheels & suspension now sold)
- Bose Symphony II Stereo
- Convenience Package
- Light Silver Metallic Paint
- Audi CPO Extended Warranty
Suspension & Braking:
- 19×8.5 BBS CH Black Edition Wheels in ET35 with carbon center caps
- 19×8.5 BBS CH Wheels (Silver) in ET35 with carbon center caps & red center caps (sold)
- 19×8.5 Rays Engineering Sporttechnic Mono 10 Premium 2 Piece Forged Wheels (sold)
- 235/35/19 Michelin PilotSport PS2 tires
- Koni Coilovers
- 22mm RS4 Rear Sway bar
- 640 mod – removed fuse to improve road feel and reduce power steering assist
- Adam’s Rotors
- Hawk HPS Brake Pads (Front & Rear)
- USP Motorsports Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- APR Stage 2 tune with Stock/91/93/100 programs
- APR Stainless Steel Test Pipe
- Billy Boat (B&B) Exhaust with S4 Quad tips
- Carbonio Intake
- 034 Motorsport Silicone Turbo Inlet Pipe
- OEM Bi-Xenon E-Code Headlights & Kufatec Retrofit harness (originally equipped with Halogen)
- S6 DRL LED Retrofit with OEM S6 grills retrofitted to S-line bumper
- LED License Plate Bulbs (42 Draft Designs)
- Clear Corner Mod
- LED City Lights
- “Chrome Dome” turn signals
Interior (View all posts tagged Interior Mods)
- LED Interior Lighting
- RS4 Pedals & RS6 Dead Pedal
- Agency Power Big Paddle Shifters
- Carbon Fiber Interior trim by oCarbon
- LED Cigarette lighter flashlight
- Platinum S4 Recaro Seats
- CiM Vent Mounted Boost Gauge
- RS4 E-Brake Cover
Aesthetics & Miscellaneous:
- RS4 Grille
- SpoonFedTuning Carbon Fiber Cupra Lip
- S4 Door Blades
- Audi S4 Rear Valence in Carbon Fiber (removed & destroyed)
- DTH Side Skirts (removed & sold)
- Eurogear carbon fiber hood
- Clear Front Sidemarkers & DIY Color Matched Rear Sidemarkers
- 3 Piece Engine Cover Set: Cowl Cover, Battery Cover, and RS4 Drivers Side Cover
- VAG-com Mods: Window Up/Down by Remote, Doors Auto-lock
- Gunmetal Trunk Rings
- Audizine Black Zinc Metal License Plate Frame
- Hardwired Escort Passport 8500 X50 Radar Detector
- In-Car Motorola Droid Integration & Car Mount
- Panavise Car Mount
- BlitzSafe AUDI/AUX DMX V.1B to add an auxiliary input
- Ross-Tech VAG-COM cable
- Leather Care – Leatherique Pristine Clean (regular cleaning of seats) & Rejuvinator Oil (to restore cracked or dry leather)
- Interior Cleaning – Einszett 1Z Cockpit Preimum
- Quick Detailer – Poorboy’s World Spray & Wipe
- Wheel Cleaner – SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect
- Tire Shine – TUF SHINE Tire Clearcoat
- Microfiber Towels – DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel
great write up on the Passport hardwiring..i have one question…all i can find is this kit:
(fuses up to 10 amps)…is that okay? btw, I have a 2007 A3.
and it says:
* Turns one fuse slot into two while providing protection for both circuits
* Use with ATO fuses up to 10 amps
* Includes 3,5,7.5 and 10 amp fuses
Hi Ed – that will work great for your use. 10 amp should be sufficient, I’ve seen people use 5 or 7.5 amp and get sufficient amperage too. Thanks for checking out my site!
Nice upgrades Nick, very nice. I have a ’06 Quartz gray I plan to start upgrading, very excited. This is my 2nd Audi, had a ’04 Black 225 TT w/mods. I have some questions. Why did u ditch the CF rear valence? I would like to do one maybe but not for a quad. Also have you seen a CF trunk lid spoiler by chance? The size of the normal s-line look. Also just curious why u ditched the s-line door blades. I am interested in doing a RS bumper w/blackout grille. I have many more questions but don’t want to overwhelm you. Anyways, congrats on your car, looks great!
Nice – welcome to the B7 club 🙂
The CF rear valence did not age well – after about a year it had turned a little yellow and hazy in finish, and it started to warp a little in shape and didn’t fit flush with the rear bumper anymore. Simply put it didn’t meet my standards anymore and looked like a poorly made aftermarket part, which I didn’t like.
I’ve seen the trunk spoiler but not sure if I like how they look on light silver – a little too much contrast IMO. Also be sure to note that the S-Line and Non S-Line have different rear trunks – the non S-line has a lot more spoiler options whereas the S-Line has a different curvature and those won’t fit.
For the door blades – I guess it was just time for a change. Part of me regrets not holding on to them. Having the flat door blades gives the car a more “clean” look which I like, but the S4 door blades had a nice aggressive look which I miss from time to time.
RS4 Bumper with blackout grille is a great look, I have a featured ride coming up soon that installed a RS4 style bumper on his A4 and it came out awesome. Be sure to stay tuned for that…and thanks for the compliments on my car!
Do you plan to do an intercooler upgrade? If so, what solution have you settled upon (if any)?
I would like to, but I’m not sure what to do. I originally planned on the AWE intercooler but the S6 LEDs were in the way of the intercooler piping so it wouldn’t fit. I’ve thought about maybe just upgrading all of the stock intercooler piping as I’ve heard that helps, and 034Motorsport makes a kit to do that. I’ve also seen ER SMIC kits, I’d be worried there wouldn’t be enough airflow back there though. So for now, I’m a little torn :/
I am also torn. I’m leaning toward the 034 SMIC since it can be done without disrupting too much (and bigger HAS to be better, the question is just how much for such a steep price). The piping sounds like an easy/cheap option, but I don’t really see how that is going to help much on a car where the stock hoses are still in good shape. I live in FL, so like you I’m already starting to battle the significant summer heat. Keep us posted on your decision. I for one really appreciate what you are doing here!
Nice car, any updates on this moment?
got also a B7 but in avant.
And pushing him into OEM+ style, also those S4/RS4 seats i like very much!
Thanks! I’d love to get an RNS-E and have been shopping around for one, but haven’t managed to buy one yet – it’s still quite a bit of money here in the states (at a minimum $800 when you factor in all of the wiring adapters necessary). Gotta love the B7 Avant, keep me posted on its progress!
where did you get the led fog lights?
Hi Nick – they’re S6 LEDs that I custom retrofitted. You can read how I did it here: https://www.nickscarblog.com/diy/b7-audi-a4-s6-led-retrofit-diy
Hey Nick, great site. Is there a reason you went with the billy boat exhaust over an apr exhaust since you have the apr test pipe and tuning. better performance/sound? thanks
Thanks! For the B7, I believe Billy Boat (B&B) actually produced the exhaust for APR, so they are the same thing more-or-less. The B&B exhaust is just minus the APR badging, a little cheaper, and since they’re headquartered out of Phoenix I could get a better deal 🙂 APR makes great stuff and I’d recommend them 100%
To inform you about my progress of my car; i started retrofitting xenon, but in meanwhile someone hitted my car at the back…
So to repair this i decided to transform my front, to US S-line with S4 grill and foglight covers wich i can remove.
Yes i’m driving in EU 😉
here a glimps of my interior (i don’t like carbon interior)
Sounds nice! The interior is looking good too. Keep up the good work 🙂
hey nick, car looks great.I was just curious if u spray painted your wheels? what exactly did you do?
I had them professionally painted, so I’m not sure. For $250-300 you can get someone to either paint or powdercoat them. I didn’t want to try to DIY on a $3,000 set of BBS wheels…
Hey Nick, how do you like those hawk HPS brake pads? anything you would recommend instead of those? i’d be putting them on stock A4 s-line rotors. Also some times when I brake and/or turn i hear a small popping noise, any idea why thatd be happening ?
I like them, but not sure if I’d get them again. They are fine for daily driving but they didn’t fare well at the track – they squeak like crazy now and the compound in the HPS couldn’t take the heat. I’m not sure on the noise.
Thanks for the input. Last question, how much do you recommend i sell my stock a4 s-line rims for ? appears you had the same ones, thick 5 spoke.
Bryce when I sold mine with good tires I believe I got $800 for them. Depending on condition and your local market you may be able to fetch a little more…
how did you get your hands on Bi-Xenon Headlights?
I found them lightly used (and much cheaper) on the Audizine Classifieds: http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/ – you can also purchase through the dealer but they run about $1500 per headlight…
Hey Nick, I know it’s probably been a while since you have had your A4 but, do you remember what would void your warranty? (Carbonio Intake, Ecode Bi Xenon’s etc.)
@Evan – in theory, any aftermarket part could void the warranty, but typically only of the parts that it comes in contact with. So if you put in aftermarket headlights, but have an engine issue, the components are not related so the fault would not be due to the aftermarket part. It’s tricky though as it depends on the dealership, some dealerships will give you a hard time and others wont. I know my A4 was heavily modified and I never ever once had an issue making a warranty claim, even for engine stuff despite a tune, intake, exhaust & test pipe.
Ok, thanks Nick, I will contact my Audi dealer ASAP.
How much did all that cost? I have a car basically the exact same as yours and just have rims on it. What should i start off with?
Not sure as I bought a lot of the parts used…but I spent a decent chunk of change in modifications anyway 🙂
I’d start with suspension (either coilovers or koni yellows & springs) and a tune (APR makes a great tune for the 2.0T) as those will be mods you’ll notice right away. Exhaust & intake for the sound, then whatever you want from there. I loved my Recaro seats since they’re dramatically more comfortable than the stock seats and something you enjoy on every drive, so keep your eye opened for those too.
I want to do those lights but im not with wiring. Wat would i need to get for a shop to do it for me
I honestly have no clue what a shop would charge for that…
I’ve always admired your B7 A4, and now your S4. I have a B7 Silver A4 myself that I bought just over a year ago. I’ve been looking at upgrading the OEM Symphony II+ stereo to RNS-E, and I was wondering why you never ended up doing it in your A4. Was it the relative cost/benefit, or is it a more difficult and less seamless install than the internet would have me believe?
Also, my car is a Canadian model, but I live in the U.S. This means the instrument cluster is in km/h only, and the gauges are labelled differently, and has the red-only trip computer. I personally like the uniqueness and euro-feel of this, but I’m worried about resale value down the road. Is there a way to change out the instrument cluster for a U.S, RNS-E color one?
Thanks for your help,
Thanks Jon! I never did the RNS-E on my A4, but I wanted to. Ultimately it came down to cost – a good RNS-E setup will run about $800. It was a tough pill to swallow when my iPhone or Android phone could do better navigation (since it had real-time traffic and data). The newer RNS-Es do have real-time traffic data but they’re even more expensive to retrofit. So for my A4, I figured I’d do it eventually but it was low on my priority list since I already had a fine navigation system (my phone) and the $800 could be better spent elsewhere.
I do have the RNS-E on my S4, and truthfully I find it a little disappointing. It looks nice, and it works well, but it takes forever to punch in an address and even with the most recent navigation disc the roads are out of date and theres no traffic data. If where I’m going is super important, I’ll probably just use my phone…the only time I really use navigation in the RNS-E is for long road trips (and even then I cross-reference my phone just to make sure the routes dont differ).
I have no clue on the dashboard being Canadian – you may want to talk to your dealer. I’m pretty sure you can toggle between miles and kilometers for the trip computer though.
Hey Nick I’m looking to lower my B7 an inch or so, I have experience with Metal Fabrication so i’m wondering in your opinion how hard it’s going to be to cut the stock Coils? Thanks!
It probably wouldn’t be that hard, but I wouldn’t do that if I were you – the car is too nice to cut the springs and have a bouncy ride. For $200-300 you can get some H&R or Eibach springs that will ride much nicer…
That’s not a bad price for Springs, so they just come shorter than Stock ones? Do you have a Link to a good Website for those? Thanks Nick.
Cody – I”d Google it/search around, but I looked on eBay and found some Eibachs for about $250 and saw the H&R Sport Springs a handful of places for about $275. They are shorter yes but they use more metal so the ride quality and stiffness stays about the same.
Will do man im having a lot of fun modifying the B7, besides what I have already done I’m going to order the Carbonio Intake and The ECU upgrade from my local SCR Performance Shop. Everything will be in and on my B7 by the 15th. Any Extra advice?
Thats awesome – no other advice, watch for your diverter valve as sometimes those break and you’ll loose boost. I’d invest in a test pipe if you haven’t already, followed by a boost gauge so you can monitor your boost and make sure you don’t have any leaks or problems…
Whats the best way to check up on my Diverter valve? and what is the benefit of the test pipe?
Hey Nick scratch the last comment I did some research and answered all my previous questions, Now I have been wanting to black out the chrome window trim. After all my research its sounds to difficult to make it worth doing. Do you know anything About the process or of a DIY? Thanks man
Hey Nick quick question for you, I see you had the Koni Coilovers on your A4 and you said they were even smoother than the oem suspension, so did you have it on the softest dampening setting? And what height did you keep them at? Any help would be appreciated thanks man
I ran them at about 25″ Fender to Ground and kept the dampening settings they came with, so basically just install them and lower them to wear there is only about a 1 finger gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender…
I’ve been meaning to do a post on blacking out the window trim…there are three options: 1 – use vinyl to cover the chrome, such as the BMW Shadowline vinyl. IT’s tough to apply and get perfect but otherwise a pretty good route (2) Plasti-dip, a bit tougher to apply and may not hold up over time on the chrome surface (I’ve heard mixed results on this) or (3) get it painted, which is what I did…although the more expensive route, it’s holding up great and looks very OEM…
Did you have any bounce with the default dampening setting? I just bought a brand new set and I’m worried if its too soft there will be alot of bounce, but I don’t want super firm either since its my daily driver to work. Just wanna keep oem comfort or better. For blacking out I would get it wrapped in vinyl if price matters, its still great looking and will much longer than plasti-dip imo.
No bounce at all – very smooth, you’ll be very happy with it from a daily driver perspective. My commute is/was about 15 miles each way on side streets…no complaints.
Hey Nick I’ve been meaning to ask you something for a long time, how much trouble will I run into if it’s even possible when it comes to doing the S6 DTRL retrofit on a non sline grill? Will I be able to fit the lights and new grills inside the old fog light housing?
I’m not sure if the S6 LEDs would fit in the non s-line opening to be honest…it would be tight and probably require a lot more cutting than what I had to do. If I were you I’d spend the money to upgrade to an S-line or DTM front bumper instead…
Hey Nick, I am an owner of an Audi A4 similar to the one you previously owned. I am in the process of doing a mod on my stock rear sway bar to an RS4. However, there is a thread on Audizine for some 034 Motorsport sway bars, and I need to know what is more reliable in respect to performance and less body roll. Please let me know what else you bought to replace the stock rear sway bar to that RS4 mod. Lastly, what is your take on replacing the sway bar end links if going for this mod, did you go through that?
Thanks, appreciate it!
The 034 sway bars do look really nice, I’m tempted to try it out on my S4…but so far, I haven’t seen one or tested one, so it’s hard for me to tell. If I were going to go that route, I’d go with the end links too just to get the full package. 034 is a pretty reputable company so I would think its a quality product, but if you already have an RS4 rear sway you may just want to keep what you have and see later down the road what the reviews look like and if folks think its worth upgrading from an RS4 to an 034 sway bar…
Well, I am still debating whether to get the RS4 or the 034 rear sway bars. 034 is a great reputable company. Now, if I go with the RS4 bar will I be required to get new end links? On the flip side, guys out there that have gone with the 034’s have said they’ve replaced the end links due to breaking the stock ones.
The RS4 sway bars don’t require new end links (nor do the 034, they’re just optional). I think the upgraded end links are a good idea though like you said. I wish I had more personal experience here but all I know is what I’ve read.
Did you by any chance upgraded the end links when you got the RS4 sway bar?
Or just went ahead with the pure RS4 bar mod and found no problems…
I just did the RS4 bar with stock endlinks/hardware…no problems.
Thanks man, I like your clean setup here. I am thinking on working my way up to some 19’s..at the moment I am running 17 alloys wrapped on Pirellis 235’s. I do not want to fender roll anything like some others have done. Any advice with this regard?
19s won’t rub as long as you don’t completely slam your suspension and you run a fairly mild offset. Most folks run a 235/35/19 tire on a 19×8.5″ wheel with around a offset of ET35 and that runs great. You could probably do an ET40 if you were really worried about rubbing, or go with a slightly skinnier tire like a 225/35/19…
Awesome, I appreciate the advice. I’ll make a note of that, because rubbing is one of my concerns, and at the end of the day, I am also looking for a decent stance at this desirable size…(not too low, but just about right) so Ill be sure to look for either some KW suspension or coils.
Hey Nick I’m wondering where the best place to find an s-line bumper would be, as well as the center grill? Thanks
Check out ECSTuning.com, OEMPlus.com, or GenuineAudiParts.com for an OEM S-Line bumper + Grille. Genuine Audi Parts will be the cheapest probably, but their site is the hardest to use. Keep in mind that you need more than just the bumper cover & grille to swap out the front bumper from non s-line to s-line though, you need new foglight grilles, mounting brackets, reflectors and a few other items too…
Okay so I’m gonna order the Bumper cover, lower grills, reflectors and any different mounting brackets. I’ll be getting the S-Line grill from another source. Can you think of anything else I’ll need that I wont be able to retro fit myself?
Thanks Nick this will be a lot of help.
I think that’s about it. Here is a full part-list of everything needed according to a poster from Audizine:
8E0-945-072-B Marker Light
8E0-945-071-B Marker Light
8E0-807-105-J-GRU Bumper Cover
8E0-955-101-E Washer Nozzle Left
8E0-955-102-F Washer Nozzle Right
Hi nick I’m just wondering if you could answer me a question. I have just bought a b7 a4 s line special edition. The steering wheel controls say no function when they are pressed. Is there anyway to activate them or does a separate ecu need to be purchased ?
No need for a separate ECU, you probably just need to enable that feature via Vag-com to tell your current ECU that the feature should now be enabled.
Hey Nick I just want to get to it, if I missed it and you’ve previously mentioned it; my apologies. I am in the process of installing HPS front pads on my A4 but the guy told me there would be hard squeaking/squealing along the way. Based on your install, did you ever experience this with your A4? If so, what did you do to rid of it?
@Manny – i had the HPSs on my A4 as well as my S4. They didn’t squeal too bad IMO, they were maybe slightly noiser than OEM but not by much. If your brakes are squealing a lot, they’re either low on brake pad, or there is some residue that needs burnt off which a hard breaking session will do – the only times my HPSs squealed was after a track day or other abuse, and generally it would go away after whatever brake dust & residue built up had burned off the rotors. I wouldn’t sweat it too much, unless noise is a serious concern, then you can go for a less aggressive pad that will also squeal less. But the HPS isn’t that aggressive and won’t bother most people.
Okay, now I’m being told that my rotors need replacement, did you went ahead and did the same? I’m guessing the front rotors never got replaced or cut; which I hear is not a good idea to cut.
@Manny – yeah I wouldn’t cut them either. check out Adam’s Rotors for replacement rotors, they’ve got great stuff…
Nick, amateur question probably but I am in the process of battery removal, there is a wire tube leading from the positive terminal of the battery, do I just yank it out or what is the best route to remove this wired tube ..I don’t want there to be any problems. thanks in advance.
You can just remove the wire at but loosening the bolt that connects to the battery terminal itself. Don’t forget you’ll need to reprogram your key after removing the battery!
Thanks Nick, yeah I just got it installed, no problems in reference to my alarm keyfob locking and opening my doors. I just had to manually turn my key and start as well as reset my time and date, am I good?
@Manny yep – you may need to turn the key on/off several times (But do not start the car, just go from off to accessory on) to get the keyless entry feature to work again.
Niceee! How much did those s4 quad exhaust pipes go for?
I think I paid about $850 for the exhaust originally…
I just wanted to ask where can i get the audi a4 b7 head lights with built in led’s from? i stay in south africa. also how good is APR for software from what i seen and heard its the best for audi’s and delivers the most reliable best performance? please could you give me some insight .
There are some options on eBay for LED headlights, or you can contact fly300kts on Audizine and see if he ships his kits internationally. In terms of the APR software yes, it is very good and reliable, I highly recommend them!
Hi Nick. Just recently discovered your blog and it’s great! I recently purchased a 2006 B7 A4 in silver with black interior and so far I lots of great ideas on DIY stuff that I can do. Great content here!
Thanks Ryan! Enjoy your B7!
hi nick i’m a new a4 b7 owner and would like to say your cars are awesome. i would like to ask you for some future upgrades for my car also but for now i am just curious as to what kind of android phone holder you got on your car.
thanks from a audi a4 b7 newbie.
The holder was made by a company called Panatech – it’s really slick! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NERYZA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002NERYZA&linkCode=as2&tag=niscabl-20
Hey nick, is the CAI a waste of money. All i hear is, it does nothing to ones performance. Based on your earlier mods on the a4 b7, did you notice a significant boost in power. I hear more cons than pros about carbonio. I just purchased an upgraded steel piston dv from ecs if i decide to mod anything in the near future.
For the S4 this is definitely the case as it tends to just suck in more hot air. For the A4 I am not sure, I have heard both ways.
I see, however, at the end of the day..is the Carbonio air intake a waste of money? Specifically for the A4 B7.
Or is chipping the ECU more bang for my buck?
Hey Nick. Just wondering when you had your a4 b7 did u have rough idle problem when your rpm drops down to 800 or so. I’be been reading multiple forums and hears issues like crankcase and mount. Would you know how to solve it. It would be nice if you can start a post if you have any solution. Thank you
Hi Manto – I never had that issue. To be honest to solve it I would take to a dealer or an independent Audi/VW I trust, stuff like that can be a complex animal. It never hurts to run a scan in vag-com, replace coil packs and replace the cam follower, but those symptoms don’t really sound symptomatic of those parts failing…
Hey Nick! What was the FTG if you remember? Love the way it sat
It was 24.5″ when I was on my OEM wheels, but I raised it to about 24.75″ when I put on aftermarket 19s to minimize rubbing. My S4 is about 24.75-25″ as well.
you never need to change the hose to the throttle body due to higher boost you had?
i chipped mine and i do not know if the oem it is ok…
OEM should be fine, some people used to have issues with the diverter valve going bad with higher boost but I think Audi revised that part and it’s not really an issue. Definitely get a test pipe and exhaust if you haven’t already!
Hey, saw the list and read you had done a 640, what was your impression of it man?
Loved it, definitely recommend for A4s. I didn’t repeat it for the S4 as the steering feel is different and not as necessary, but really liked it on my A4. It takes a few days to get used to, then you can’t imagine driving it any other way…
Nick i know that test pipe is the best but laws in Greece are very strict for decat.
200cpi cat would be better in comparison with 400 stock but the value+hp/money not so good.
Yeah, that’s a tough trade-off.
Loved your B7 A4. I was thinking about upgrading my B7 A4 Quattro to the billy boat exhaust with quad tips. I was wondering, what are your thoughts on upgrading cars with 100k miles? I’ve done all necessary replacements timing belt, plugs, etc. it’s a very clean, well maintained car.
I see no issue with that – as long as your on top of maintenance, you should be fine. The only things to watch out there are huge power adders (e.g. big turbo) as well as the transmission, as it may be nearing the end of its life – but those are parts that will need refurbished/rebuilt eventually regardless, so worst case scenario the mods just accelerate that process a little bit…
Thanks for the advice Nick! Do you think the APR stage II upgrade will put too much stress on the engine since it has 110K miles on it.
I think you’ll be fine, Marc. I wouldn’t go much more than that though if you’re worried about it.
I have the opportunity to pounce on a BB exhaust just like yours, used only for 1000 miles on it. Its up online for sale from a fellow audiziner. I just would like to know your thoughts about the BB’s drone and your overall experience using it.
I had no drone issues. It was a great exhaust for a DD. The resonated version (I’m assuming this one is) is fairly quiet and subtle – most notable in lower RPMs where it is more of a deep base, quieter in the mid range (where you do the bulk of your driving), and louder in the upper range when going heavy on the throttle. Would definitely recommend it!
ey nick I am Nicolas from south Africa I just wanted to ask if I can install a rs4 grill on my a4 b7 non s-line …Thanks
The RS4 grille will not fit a standard A4/non S-line, but there are aftermarket grilles for the non S-Line that have RS4 mesh and look very similar. Check out eBay for those, such as this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-08-AUDI-A4-B7-RS-STYLE-EURO-MESH-GRILLE-W-BADGE-HOLDER-BLACK-SATIN-/191199274059?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2006%7CModel%3AA4&hash=item2c845d644b&vxp=mtr
Hi Nick where did you bought these headlights from ? and are they really bright in sun light like, Audi R8? or Audi A4 B8?
Hi OJJ – the headlights are just OEM, but maybe you’re referring to the S6 LEDs below? They’re very bright in the sun, they’re OEM parts from Audi as well. Here are the relevant DIYs:
S6 LED DRLs: https://www.nickscarblog.com/diy/b7-audi-a4-s6-led-retrofit-diy
Hey Nick – I’m planning to swap the stock, non-sport suspension on my B7 A4 for Eibach Pro springs + Bilstein Sport or Koni FSD shocks. The main goal is to improve appearance, but am also looking forward to improved handling without sacrificing comfort. It’s my Seattle daily driver – no track use.
Any insight on Bilstein vs Koni? Would you suggest wheel spacers?
Hi Ryan – I think you can’t go wrong either way, but if my memory serves me right from my A4 days the Bilstein is a little stiffer and the Koni’s are a little softer. Both options should suit you well. If you have the stock wheels then yes, some spacers might do you well too 🙂
Yes, stock 17″ 5-spokes. Thanks for the advice – your blog is an amazing resource!
Thank you, Ryan, appreciate the kind words!
Hi this is EnvyP form NYC. Iam trying to find a Rs5 Grille. Loo. For my A4. B7 convertible. …the RS5 grille is all honeycomb grille with no center piece.. any suggestions or links. Playazenvy28 at yahoo Dot com is my email .
Hi Joey – check out this post, should have what you’re looking for: https://www.nickscarblog.com/diy/how-to-fit-an-rs6-grille-on-a-b7-a4-s4-or-rs4-all-mesh-no-filler-plate
Hi Nick fantastic write up. The Car looks the ”Dogs B*ll*cks”( A term used here in East End of London, England ) . The way you had done the mods was fantastic and in great detail. I stumbled across your write up as I’m looking to do a Halogen to Xenon conversion on my 2006 B7.
Haha, I’ve never heard that expression before but I love it. Thanks Kalvin!
Hey man, I have a audi A4 B7 2006, with halogen lights, but I want mine to give out the same colour as yours does. Which bulbs do I use? I saw a few topics here but im not sure whats the full set that i need to replace all of them. thanks
You have a few options. My preference would be to upgrade to bi-xenon headlights, but this is the most expensive option…DIY here: https://www.nickscarblog.com/diy/halogen-to-xenon-conversion-for-b7-audi-a4s-2005-5-2008
If not, another option is to upgrade to aftermarket headlights, some of which come with LED DRLs in them. I don’t love the look, but they’re getting nicer and nicer.
If you just want to keep your stock headlights and just upgrade a few bulbs, then you’ll want to replace the “City Light” bulb which is the same type of bulb (and location) as the xenons in this DIY: https://www.nickscarblog.com/diy/led-city-lights-diy-for-b7-audi-a4s4rs4 – however, there is no DRL equivalent so you can’t do that retrofit. The other two bulbs are the high beams and low beams, both of which are a H7 bulb. There are aftermarket bulbs that aren’t quite as yellow, but the only way to get a true HID look is to upgrade to a full xenon system that has ballasts, HID bulbs, and projector lenses.
hey nick loving everything
what is 640 mod – removed fuse to improve road feel and reduce power steering assist
could you explain
You pull a fuse that disables some of the electronic assisted steering to give it more of an analog feel. Check out this thread for instructions: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/261436-Servotronic-Fuse
I have a 2007 Audi A4 2.0T b7, I purchased a new wiper stalk but its not working properly wipers do work but not for the instrument cluster can you help me out on how to program?
Hey Nick, I love your blog as it taught me a lot with my b7 A4. I have a question about the cvt transmission since you also had one. When should I get the cvt transmission fluid changed? I got the car at 76k miles when I was 17 and it now has 112k. I’ve been good on maintenance otherwise such as the cam follower and oil change, timing and vacuum pump. Any help would be great.
I believe the interval is every 100K miles, but you should double check against the owners manual. Regardless, the fluid is probably close to 15 years old by now, so I think it would be a good idea to change it regardless!